Friday, 28 September 2012

Bikinis: I give in

Praia do Curral, Ilhabela


I'm English, ok.  As a result, I don't feel comfortable wearing a bikini unless I have what is known as a 'bikini body'.  I don't have a bikini body.  Far from it.  Actually, before I went to Ilhabela the other week, I didn't even own a bathing costume because I'm that insecure about showing skin.

Anyhoo, my girlfriend managed to convince me before hitting the beach to at least buy a sports bra, a vest and a pair of bicycle shorts.  One trip to C&A later and I was sorted.

We spent the entire day on the beach on the first day and that experience brought me to the following conclusion: a bikini is the only way to go in Brazil.  I was very hot the whole day and Kelly spent the whole time pointing out women the size of whales wearing bikinis.  "See? She's wearing a bikini... so is she... and her.... I'm fat, I'm wearing a bikini," she said.

It was about 28 degrees and I was uncomfortably hot, god help me in the summer when it hits 40 on a hot day and I'm wearing bloody bicycle shorts.

Cachoeira da Toca, Ilhabela
P.S. DO NOT GO TO CACHOEIRA DA TOCA.  The mosquitos are total bastard and the citronella oil makes no difference whatsoever. And the waterfall isn't particularly impressive.

Friday, 3 August 2012

Brazilians speak PORTUGUESE




N.B. This blog isn’t directed at anyone in particular.

English people like to talk about Americans like they’re idiots.  They’re not idiots, they wouldn’t be so successful at so many different things if that were the case.  What they do have a tendency towards is ignorance. 

This is because of the way the majority of them are educated (and I’m not necessarily talking about schooling) – they are not encouraged to show much interest in anything outside of their borders.  They also tend to put different types of people into stereotype boxes in their minds.  This often means that when they travel outside of their own country, they suffer from a terrible case of foot-in-mouth disease.  They make horrific generalisations about various different nationalities, races and countries, e.g. everyone in Africa is starving or has AIDs (your eyes may have widened there – I’m not kidding, I’ve heard this before), all South Americans are poor/criminals/drug-smugglers, all Arabs are terrorists, and Canadians are boring (OK, I’ll give them that one – I lived there for 18 months).

Again, this is not idiocy it’s ignorance.  If you’re ignorant, you can learn.  Not all Americans are this way, just a significant majority.  I’m half-American myself, and I have plenty of American friends who are not in any way ignorant.

Now I’m going to get to my point: Americans are not the only nationality prone to ignorance.  Everyone is.  I have recently experienced jaw-dropping ignorance from Canadians, Brits, Aussies, and various Europeans.

When I think about it, I learnt absolutely nothing about South America in school. N-O-T-H-I-N-G.  It wasn’t a British colony at some point, so it wasn’t of interest to the British educational system.  So, I came here only knowing what I’d read in the news or what my Brazilian friends in London had told me, which is not the best way to educate yourself about a country.  I have learnt a lot since then but I am definitely no expert.

However, I’m going to clear up a few questions so you don’t embarrass yourself or seriously offend a Brazilian next time you speak to one/visit the country:

Brazilians speak Spanish, right?
NO THEY DON’T.  The national language is Portuguese.  Although the languages are similar in a lot of respects, they sound totally different.  You might run into the odd Brazilian in Brazil who speaks Spanish, but only in the same way you might run into the odd Brazilian who can speak English.  They generally just speak Portuguese.  If you come here, bring a goddamn phrasebook for chrissakes.

I didn’t know there were blonde Brazilians…
* facepalms *  Never ever EVER say that to a Brazilian!  Brazilians come in all different shapes, colours, and sizes.  There is no particular ‘Brazilian’ identifying physical feature.  Everyone can look like a Brazilian – and I mean everyone: there is a sizeable Brazilian-Asian community, for instance.  I’ve met Brazilians of various different descents: Japanese, Korean, Bangladeshi, Indian, German, Dutch, Spanish, Italian…the list is endless.

Is it safe?
Do you walk down dark, unlit streets in bad neighbourhoods on a regular basis?  No, neither do I.  So, don’t do it here either and you won’t have a problem.  Don’t flash your iPhone 4S and your Prada sunglasses around in public and probably no one will take any interest in you, criminally speaking.  Show off the fact you’re a gringo (talking English at the top of your voice) and that you’re on holiday, at your peril be it.  Basically, don’t be a dick.

I’ve heard they’re really lazy and just party all the time…
It’s true, Brazilians know how to enjoy themselves, but not at the expense of making a living.  Hardworking Brazilians work a hell of a lot harder than hardworking Europeans.  At the top of the scale, it is pretty common for professionals (accountants, lawyers etc.) to work 10/12-hour days in São Paulo as a matter of course – not just under special circumstances.  I have students who frequently work longer hours a couple of times a week (and manage to fit in study time for English and MBAs).  At the bottom of the scale, people in what we would consider the working class often hold down more than one job or business to make ends meet.

Is there malaria?
No, this isn’t Africa.  Read the FCO website you lazy git.  No malaria, small risk of Yellow Fever – but only in the north of the country.  Get a jab and do your bloody homework.

It’s amazing how much they travel, considering…
Considering what, exactly?  That they’re poor?  They have rich people here too, y’know.  And they have a rapidly expanding middle class.  They can probably afford to travel more than you can, because your economy is crap and theirs isn’t.

Do they have cars?
Fuck.  Off.

Helpful tip:
Don’t put down Brazil as a country in conversation with a Brazilian.  Don’t bitch about their education system, don’t criticize their government, and don’t tell them how corrupt their politicians are.  Brazilians are not in the habit of putting other people down (unless they’re talking about Argentina or Paraguay), so be polite and don’t do it to them.  Brazilians are generally inquisitive in a positive way and will avoid offence.  If you’re British and you have a tendency towards criticism (which we do), bite your tongue.  You inevitably know less about their country than they do.  Don’t be so arrogant and condescending as to tell them what’s wrong with their country.  They are fully aware of their country’s defects, they don’t need you listing them out.  If they offer up a conversation with national comparisons, it is not an invitation to be negative.  If you're going to ask a question/make a statement, ask yourself "would I be offended if someone from another country asked/said this to me about my country?" before you open your mouth.  If the answer is "yes", shut up.

Wednesday, 25 July 2012

Parada Gay São Paulo

Avenida Paulista at the beginning of the Parade

Ok, so this happened last month but it's still worth blogging about.

The São Paulo gay parade is the largest gay pride event in terms of attendance in the world.  If you've ever experienced Carnaval in the streets (not the Sambadrome), it's basically that but with gay people and very loud house music.

This year on Sunday the 10th of June there were roughly 3 million attendees, which is less than last year's 3.5 million.  Apparently there were security issues last year (petty theft, homophobic violence).  I think there was a death one year.  Brazil is a traditionally Catholic country and, despite heavy support from the government, Parada Gay still touches a nerve with a lot of people.  However, this year's event went off without a hitch.

In typical Brazilian style, it started late.

Despite the huge amount of people on Avenida Paulista, there weren't any actual crowding issues.  If you wanted to, you could get into the mosh pit following each one of the 12 trio elétricos (giant floats).  Or, like me, you could calmly stand on the pavement bopping your head to the music.

The weather was sunny, the temperature was mild, the atmosphere was joyful.  It was a lot of fun.

Afterwards, we walked down Frei Caneca (Gayville, SP) and stopped outside a lesbian bar that was blaring out house music and took part in a popular Brazilian pastime: drinking beer outdoors.

We went home about 6pm because I had been partying nonstop since Wednesday evening and I desperately needed to sleep.

The VIP area.  Politicians, mostly.
Me and Kelly (my girlfriend)


Me and a famous SP drag queen called Kchaka (I think) 


Giant floating condoms: "Protect your pride, wear a condom"





The theme of the Parade was "Homophobia has a cure: Education and Criminalisation"

Gay bar on Frei Caneca, later on in the evening.

Been a while!

Right, I haven't posted for ages because I've been busy with a new relationship and being all lovey-dovey and all that boring romantic stuff that gets in the way of writing blogs.

I have done a few things that warrant blogging, but they're ages ago now and I like to write about things when they're fresh in my mind, so I'll file them away for another time.  Probably worth blogging on Parada Gay, though.

I'm very happy and settled.  I've moved in with my girlfriend to Gayville, SP.  It's like Clapham Common without all the green stuff.  My Portuguese is coming along slowly.  According to my girlfriend (Brazilian, also an English teacher) I'm a Basic 2.  This means I make horrific mistakes when I speak but I can communicate and make myself understood.  I understand most things said to me.

I have been slacking off, so I'm trying to start a '1 hour a day minimum' for speaking Portuguese with my girlfriend and I've got a book that I intend to start studying soon to help with the grammar and vocabulary, etc.  I watch some Brazilian TV programmes (I still don't get and can't stand Brazilian soaps) and if there's a film on that I've seen before, I watch it in Portuguese with Portuguese subtitles incase I miss something.  I watched the whole of Pan's Labyrinth that way and I understood everything.

Business is a bit slow because of the school holidays, but it's starting to pick up.  I need to push for more private students so I can save for the next holiday period in December/January/February which will be completely dead.

Anyhoo, normal service shall resume in the next few days.  Future posts will probably lean more on the observational side because I'm not a tourist anymore and I'm now more ensconced in Brazilian culture than I was before.

Thursday, 3 May 2012

Caipirinhas and I don't see eye to eye


For the uninitiated, the caipirinha is a cachaca-based alcoholic drink (cachaca being an extremely strong Brazilian version of rum).  It is the most popular distilled alcoholic drink in Brazil.  The drink is traditionally made by crushing up pieces of lime and sugar in a glass, then mixing in ice and filling the rest of the glass with the previously mentioned cachaca.  It can also be made with vodka and pretty much any fruit the barman can manage to pulverize into the glass.  The strawberry one is particularly good - especially since it completely masks the taste of the alcohol.


Caipirinha is an extremely potent drink.  If you haven't been to Brazil, you may think that you've already tried it at some snazzy West End bar and it wasn't really that bad.  Trust me, that wasn't a caipirinha.  In England, there are specific measures for shots of liquor that pubs and bars have to stick to.  In Brazil, there are no such measures.  Here, they don't serve caipirinhas in piffly little whiskey glasses, they serve them in what looks like a half-pint glass (sometimes bigger).


Anyways.  I went out to a very cheesy gay bar on Monday night.  As I surveyed the 18/19-year-old clientelle and listened to the godawful American pop music pumping out of the sound system, I thought to myself: "I'm going to need a lot more alcohol in my bloodstream to enjoy this".  So, I decided to order a caipirinha.  Apparently I ordered one with vodka (or so I'm informed).  I drank it sort of quicklyish and started enjoying myself a bit more.  I then began slurring, the room started spinning, I went out for a cigarette and felt nauseous, and finally I went downstairs and fell asleep at a table.  My girlfriend had to physically accost me for my swipe card at the end of the evening(/morning?) to pay the bill.  I do remember watching a bit of the drag show.  She did a stage dive.


It seems that every time I have a caipirinha (or two) I end up falling asleep.  That happened on Friday when I had two of them....and back in March when I had three.


Basically, I need to steer clear.  I'm supposed to be going to The Week on Saturday night and falling asleep on the dancefloor is never a good look.